MAC OSX Support

MAC OSX Support (10)

Technical support for MAC OS X in Pelham Alabama Hoover Alabama Birmingham Alabama.

 

If you need assistance from a professional technician, call 205.427.4368 or contact Fantasktek Computer Solutions.

Tuesday, 17 May 2011 08:59

How to update your iPhone ios

Written by Administrator

The iOS 4.2.1 have been made public by Apple and is now available to download or update. One of the main features of this release is that the taste of iOS 4.2.1 also comes up for the iPad this time. It brings features like folders in iPad, Airplay, Airprint etc. If you want to update iPhone 3G, 3GS or 4 to iOS 4.2.1, here are the steps to do it.

You could update your iPhone to iOS 4.2.1 in two ways : Automatically and Manually.

Updating to iOS 4.2.1 Automatically Via iTunes

1. Download iTunes 10.1 from here.

2. Connect your iPhone to the computer.

3. iTunes shows an iOS 4.2.1 update message.

Update iPhone to iOS 4.2

4. Click the “ Download and Install ” button to update iPhone 3G / 3GS / 4 to iOS 4.2.1.

Updating to iOS 4.2.1 Manually Via iTunes

1. Download iTunes 10.1 from the above link and iOS 4.2.1 IPSW for iPhone from here..

2. Connect your iPhone to the computer.

3. Choose your device from the left sidebar.

4. Press the Shift key(in Windows) or the option key(in Mac OS X), click on the Restore button.

5. Now browse to the iOS 4.2.1 IPSW file and select it.

That’s it! Your iPhone will now be updated to iOS 4.2.1.

Tuesday, 10 May 2011 09:28

9 Advanced Tricks for iTunes

Written by Administrator

Once upon a time, iTunes was a simple program for managing the music you put on your Apple MP3 player. Now, it's a digital media management juggernaut that can be found on the hard disk drives of just about everyone who owns an iPod, iPad, or iPhone. As iTunes has grown up (we are on version 10.2), it's become more powerful and, consequently, more complicated. Here are nine tricks that give you power you didn't even know existed, from running iTunes on multiple PCs by sharing or synching files to creating your own customized iPhone ringtones to getting back your apps even after you've had to re-install iTunes on a computer. Share your favorite iTunes tricks in the comments as well, so we can all become media managers with mad skills.

1. Remotely Control iTunes
You can't remotely sync your iTunes library of media with your iPod touch or iPhone or iPad, but you can remotely control iTunes playback via those devices. Download the free Remote app from Apple and fire it up. You'll be given a 4 digit code, which you then enter in iTunes on your PC. Your iDevice will then show your library on your small screen with an interface that looks just like that of the built-in iPod app. Select a track and it will play on your PC via iTunes (which is different from using Home Sharing folders in the iPod app—then the music plays on the portable iDevice).

If you've turned on Home Sharing, you can also enter those credentials in Remote and access all the shared libraries across all the PCs running iTunes on your home network, so you can play music on all of them remotely.

2. Share and Share Alike
Go to the Advanced menu and select Turn on Home Sharing. You'll need to enter your iTunes Store ID (usually your email address) and a password to turn it on. Do the same on other computers (up to 5) in your home with iTunes and you'll soon be able see all the music—and video—from all the computers to playback. This is a perfect way to copy music between two installs of iTunes, even if one is on a Mac and the other is on a Windows PC. You can go into the Preferences in iTunes to select exactly what you want to share.

You can also access those home shared iTunes accounts on an iOS device. Go into the device Settings, select iPod, scroll down to Home Sharing, and enter the same ID and password. When you next enter the iPod app, go to the More button, and if you're on the same home network and iTunes is running on the local PCs, you should get a Shared option in the list. This is a great way to access your 100s of Gigabytes of media on an iDevice that might only have 8 or 16 GB of space available, most of which is probably filled with apps.

3. Synch iTunes Libraries
While you can move files from one iTunes install to another if you turn on sharing, it's up to you to do the copying. With a file synchronization program like Dropbox, Syncplicity, or SugarSync, however, you can make sure all your computers have the same iTunes libraries without lifting a muscle after the initial setup. If you have over 2GB (or 5GB in the case of SugarSync) of files in your Library—and who doesn't—this will cost you. But it can be worth it because your iPhone or iPod touch could then be plugged into any of the PCs sharing the files and will see it as the same library. This is particularly great if you want to sync at work and at home. And best of all, that media is backed up online as well for future catastrophes.

With Dropbox, you'll have to move your iTunes folder into the Dropbox folder; it needs to be in the same place on all your hard drives for iTunes to find it. The copying of files will take a while to go online, but might be slightly faster with the LAN sync function of Dropbox enabled.

The other issue, once the files are copying, is remembering that you can only run one instances of iTunes at a time accessing the library. That means remembering to shut iTunes down manually on each PC when done. LifeHacker came up with some scripts to help automate this process (and thanks to them for this tip).

4. Make iPhone Ringtones
You don't have to pay as much for a music ringtone as you would for the whole track. Do it for free with any music you already have. Find a music track, or any sound, that you like. Right click it, go to Get Info, and select the Options tab. Check off the start time and stop time, and put in the time frame you want—it has to be under 30 seconds. Click OK. Then right click again and select "Create AAC Version."

If you don't see that selection, you'll probably see "Create MP3 version." To fix that, go to Preference, General tab, and select Import Settings. At the top, change the Import Using drop down to say "AAC Encoder." Click OK then go back to the file and right click to get "Create AAC Version."

You'll now see the file listed twice in iTunes. Right click the new one and select "Show in Windows Explorer" (for Windows) or "Show in Finder" (for MacOS). The new file should end in .M4A extension. Change the file name so it ends in .M4R. (R as in ringtone!).

Go back to iTunes. Right click on the file you created and delete it (not just from iTunes, but also send it to the trash or recycle bin.) Drag the .M4R file you renamed to iTunes. Click on Ringtones to the left and you should see it there. Next time you sync your iPhone, it should be available. Then you find the contact you want to get that ring and specify it on in their settings.

5. Check Off All Checkboxes
Every entry in the big ol' database that is iTunes has a checkbox next to it. It's handy for some select things, like skipping unchecked songs when playing in random mode, or only synching checked songs. But some users never, ever uncheck any of those boxes. If so, you don't need them taking up space. Go into the Preferences and in the General tab uncheck "Show list checkboxes."

While you're there, if you really like the austere look, you can also uncheck "Show source icons" to get rid of the tiny, monochrome icons that appear in the left-hand navigation where you see the Library, Store, Playlists, etc.

6. Use Multiple Libraries
In general, you get one Library for all your media in iTunes. If you share your computer, other users with access to iTunes can access—and change—your library. One way around that is to use multiple user accounts on the computer, so each user logs in and gets their own iTunes library. But if its just you and you'd like to have multiple Libraries—for example, one for high-end lossless music files and another for smaller, lossy MP3s to play on MP3 players—you can do that with some work.

To create a new Library, start iTunes while holding down the Shift key (in Windows) or Option key (on Mac). You can then select Create Library or Choose Library to access existing libraries of media data. Keep in mind, the two are not related, so if you add music to one library, it won't appear in the other unless you enter it and add it yourself. If you go this route, it's best to not let iTunes manage all your music. Go to Preferences, Advanced tab, and uncheck "Keep iTunes Media folder organized." You should do it yourself.

7. My God It's Full of Stars
If you eshew the checkboxes as stated above, but still want a way to filter music, don't neglect trying star ratings. In fact, the one to five stars is a great way to rate your favorites then use those ratings to make selective smart playlists. If there's music you actually don't like, but you're an album completeist and don't want to delete them, rate the hated melody with a single star. You can then tell your smart playlists to actively ignore those tracks—especially as you synch music to your space-restrained iDevice of choice.

8. Find Your Phone Info
When you plug your iPhone in and it shows up in iTunes, you can see the serial number and phone number. This is all useful information. Click on those numbers and iTunes will cycle you through some other numbers you should make a note of, including the IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity) number, something it will be very handy to have on hand if you call for help or have to report the phone lost or stolen. You'll also get the ICCID of your phone's SIM card and the UDID (Unique Device Identifier) that is specific to your iPhone.

9. Restore Apps from iPhone
Syncing iTunes with an iPod touch or iPhone is usually a one way street: you manage things with iTunes and it copies items to your iDevice. One of the exceptions is when you buy apps on the iPhone; when you synch, those apps are copied to iTunes.

This can be your savior if you are unlucky enough to have lost your iTunes, perhaps due to a hard drive crash and subsequent restore with no backup. You can then make sure your app-filled device doesn't get erased—which is what iTunes will want to do since the new install doesn't know your iPhone from its digital elbow. Luckily, your iTunes account will let you re-download apps you've previously purchased, but then you lose your settings. Better to try and restore from the iPhone itself.

Before you connect the device, go to iTunes Preferences, then Devices, and check the box that says "Prevent iPods, iPhones, and iPad from Syncing Automatically." Then connect the device. Once it appears on the left, right click on it and select "Transfer Purchases." Wait for the progress bar to finish—it can take a while if you have a lot of apps on the iPhone—and then they should all appear in your Library, with your app settings. Subsequent synching should mean your apps don't get overwritten on the phone or media player.

Thursday, 21 April 2011 12:05

How to format a hard drive on a MAC

Written by Administrator

Disk Utility: Your formatting friend

When you format a hard drive, you’re setting up the drive so it can read and write data on your computer. It’s not a task you’d do on a frequent basis. When you buy a new hard drive, it’s usually pre-formatted, so all you have to do is connect it to your Mac.

But there may come a time when you need to format a hard drive. For example, if you bought a hard drive that wasn’t specifically geared towards Macs, it’s probably formatted for Windows. Re-formatting the drive can help improve performance and is required if you want to use the drive with Time Machine. Another example: You bought a new Mac, and you’re giving your old Mac away. Formatting the hard drive erases the data.

This article will show how to format a hard drive using Disk Utility, a helpful application that comes with every Mac. It’s easy, and takes a few minutes. The steps here are using Mac OS X 10.6.7 and should be similar for older OS versions.

Step 1: Meet Disk Utility

The Disk Utility application can be found in /Applications/Utilities. The left column lists the Mac’s storage devices. Listed under each drive are the partitions. (We’ll cover how to partition a hard drive in a separate tutorial.) For example, in the screenshot here, the first drive listed (320.07 Hitachi) is the internal drive of my MacBook Pro. Listed underneath that is the one partition that’s on the internal drive called Macintosh. The second drive listed (1.04 GB Generic Flash Disk) is an external flash thumb drive with a single partition called 1GB USB. The last device listed is the internal optical drive.

There is a set of tabs across the top right part of Disk Utility. To format a drive (or format a partition), the first step is to select it in the left column and click on the Erase tab—don’t click on the Erase button on the lower part of the interface just yet.

Disk Utility can’t format the hard drive that’s being used as the startup disk, which is usually the Mac’s internal drive. If you want to format the startup disk (which will wipe out all the data, including the system) you need to use a different drive as the startup disk or startup using the Mac OS X installation disc. You can run Disk Utility from the installation disc.

Step 2: Select a format

In the left column, select the drive you want to format. (In this example, I will format the 1.04GB Generic Flash Disk.) If you have a partitioned drive and you want to format one of the partitions but not the whole drive, select a partition.

Click on the Format pull-down menu. A list of six formats will appear. You need to select one—but which one?

Mac OS Extended is the format specifically for the Mac, and it comes in two key variations, Mac OS Extended and Mac OS Extended (Journaled). Mac OS Extended (Journaled) maintains a journal of disk changes, which is helpful in case the drive suddenly loses power or is otherwise unexpectedly unavailable. If you are formatting a drive that will be dedicated to a Mac, we recommend using Mac OS Extended (Journaled). Time Machine requires a drive or partition on a drive formatted with Mac OS Extended (Journaled).

There are two other Mac OS Extended formats available that offer case-sensitivity. With these two formats, files with the same names but different case treatments (e.g., diary.doc or Diary.doc) are considered two separate files and can both reside on your drive.

If you are formatting a drive that you want to use on both a Mac and Windows (such as a portable hard drive or flash thumb drive), consider using MS-DOS (FAT) or ExFAT. MS-DOS (FAT) has some limitations (such as a 4GB file size limit), while ExFat requires that a Mac be running OS 10.6.5 or later.

Select a format and give your drive a name.

Step 3: Security Options

Click on the Security Options button. Here, you determine how to erase the data that’s currently on the drive. Apple provides brief explanations of each method.

Select one of the methods further down the list, and you'll need more time to format the drive—in some cases, it can take many, many hours. For example, with the Don’t Erase Data option, formatting the 1GB flash drive in this example is almost instantaneous. Formatting using the 35-Pass Erase option takes two hours.

Select a Secure Erase Option that you’re comfortable with and click OK.

Step 4: Erase

This next step will actually format your drive. Review your settings and make sure they are what you want.

Click on the Erase button on the lower part of the Disk Utility interface. A confirmation dialog will appear. When you’re sure you want to proceed, click on Erase. Then sit back and wait, or call Mom, or grab a refreshing beverage. You can see the progress of the format at the lower right.

 

Step 5: Done

After Disk Utility has formatted the drive, it automatically mounts it to your desktop. There’s no alert from the software. If you have a hard drive with multiple partitions, each partition will appear on your desktop with hard drive icons. You can now use your drive just as you normally would. Enjoy.

If you work with Unix files and folders a lot, you’ve probably already noticed that you can’t see many of them in the Finder—the /usr, /bin, and /etc folders, amongst many others, don’t show up in the Finder.

Using a simple Terminal command, you can work with all the files on your machine from the Finder. Open Terminal, type this command, and press Enter:

defaults write com.apple.Finder AppleShowAllFiles YES

To make the command take effect, you need to restart the Finder. One way to do this is to hold down the Option key, then click and hold on the Finder icon in the Dock. When the contextual menu appears, select Relaunch and the Finder will restart.

When it does, you’ll find that you can now see every single file and folder on your Mac:


Notice that the /tmp, /usr, and /var directories now show up in the Finder. You’ll also discover that you can see your Unix “dot files,” such as .bashrc, in the Finder.

So what are the downsides of this trick? Well, you’ll see every hidden file on your system, which means that you’ll see a .DS_Store file in every directory. And by having every file visible, it’s that much easier to make a dumb mistake and accidentally delete one (though the truly important files are system-owned, making it much harder to do something stupid to them). Finally, as you can see in the above screenshot, all of your folder icons (in 10.4, at least) will be dimmed. However, if you work with Unix files a lot, you may find these tradeoffs worth it for the increased ease of use.

If you tire of the dimmed folders and other downsides, just open Terminal and repeat the command, but change YES to NO, then press Return again. You’ll need to relaunch the Finder again, but when you do, everything will be back to normal.

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions:

  1. Update to the latest version of iWork. Apple typically releases new versions of the iWork suite in January. Older versions may work, but it's best to update for maximum compatibility.

  2. Use Apple Numbers to create your spreadsheet.

  3. Save your spreadsheet as you normally would, as an Apple Numbers file.

  4. Select "File > Export" from the menu bar. Select "Excel" from the export options. Specify a location and click "Export." Numbers will save the file as an XLS format for use with Microsoft Excel.

If you need help in any type of file conversion, contact Fantasktek Computer Solutions or call 205-427-4368.

In older versions of OS X (e.g., Panther, Tiger), changing default shells would have been accomplished using the application utility Netinfo Manager (see box below).  However, this utility no longer exists in Leopard or Snow Leopard.

Instead, open the Accounts preferences in System Preferences.  Unlock the preferences by clicking on the lock icon in the lower left corner of the preferences panel and entering an administrator-level password.  Then right-click (or control-click) on a user name and select the Advanced Options menu.  Select the desired login shell from the pull-down menu, and click on "OK".  Log out and back in to put the change into effect.

A. Lorber pointed out to me that in order to change the default login shell, your chosen shell must also be listed in the file /etc/shells, which OS X consults to determine what is a valid shell.  By default, /etc/shells contains the following entries: 

/bin/bash
/bin/csh
/bin/ksh
/bin/sh
/bin/tcsh
/bin/zsh

If you want to use a different shell from these as your default login shell, then you must edit /etc/shells to include the full path to the installation of the shell on your computer (e.g., /opt/local/bin/bash).  Editing /etc/shells requires an administrator-level password.

Tiger Solution: To change the default shell for a particular user account, use the application utility Netinfo Manager.  Under the users category in Netinfo Manager, look for the desired login name and find the shell item in the list of properties for that account.  This should say /bin/bash by default; modify it to the desired shell (e.g., /bin/tcsh).  This will require first unlocking the properties by clicking on the lock icon and entering an administrator-level password.  Quit Netinfo Manager, then log out of the user account and log back in to globally initialize the new default shell.
Both the Shift-Control-Eject keyboard shortcut and setting a "Sleep Display" hot corner in the Expose´ System Preferences still work, so it's not a problem with the display sleeping process itself.
I tried setting various different idle times in the Energy Saver Preferences and waiting the specified time - no luck.  (I should add that I have set the computer and hard drives to never sleep, and also have set the screen saver to "never".)
I tried using pmset to set the sleep display idle time, and confirmed that this change was also reflected in the Energy Saver System Preferences panel; e.g.,
sudo pmset -a displaysleep 3
Still no luck.
I used the Plist Editor (start this by double-clicking on a .plist file in a Finder window) to examine the Energy Saver preferences; this file is located at

/Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/com.apple.PowerManagement.plist

I confirmed that the settings from the slider bar in the Energy Saver System Preferences panel were being stored correctly in the plist.  Yep, they were.
Finally, out of desperation, I deleted
/Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/com.apple.PowerManagement.plist
then logged out and back in.  I then reset the Energy Saver preferences in the System Preferences panel from the default to my desired values (computer and hard drives never sleep, display sleeps after 1 minute idle – the 1 minute was just for testing).  Voila!  It worked.  I then set the display sleep time up to a more reasonable value, and it is still working several days later.
By the way, if you are still using a screen saver on your LCD display (which I assume is because you just really like watching flying toasters, since a screen saver serves no purpose on a non-CRT display), then my subsequent googling of this problem suggests that sometimes the "display not sleeping" problem is accompanied by a similar "screen saver not starting" problem.  In this case, the conventional wisdom is to delete
~/Library/Preferences/ByHost/com.apple.screensaver.*.plist
then log out and back in.  There might be several corresponding plist files, for which the * represents a long identifying string of numbers and letters, either alone or with a specific screen saver name (e.g., "Cosmos").  I have not personally tried this (I find that the better solution to this problem is: don't use a screen saver), but have some confidence that it will work based on the similarity to the "display not sleeping" solution.
In fairness I should note that my googling also turned up some instances for which it is claimed that both of these solutions did not solve their respective problems.  At the moment, I don't have any additional advice in that case - let me know if it happens to you.

Because we are all different, operating system developers always put more than one way of doing things in their systems. One example is there’s often keyboard shortcuts, menus and toolbars in applications for doing the same thing. Consequently, it’s very easy to get into the habit of doing things a particular way without ever learning other ways.

Hopefully for the average user there might be at least one tip here that you weren’t aware of and that will be useful to you. Otherwise, I officially re-title this article: “20 Useful OS X Tips for Beginners and Switchers”.

By the way, if you have a single button mouse, where it says “right click”, substitute with “control-click” .

1. Pressing Esc while typing in most applications pops up a list of suggested completions of the word you’re typing. (Does anyone know if there’s a way to toggle the permanent display of this?)

2. Image Capture lets you manage photos on your camera before you download them.

3. Right click on an open PDF in Safari to get the a context menu which includes the option to open the PDF in Preview.

4. Pressing the Tab key in Exposé cycles through open applications.

5. Press the ` key in Exposé to cycle backwards as per the previous tip. ( ‘ is the key Tab and left of the 1 key).

6. Press Command-Q to close applications when command-tabbing. This is possibly the fastest way you’ll find to close several applications in quick succession.

7. Macs with remote controls can be put to sleep by holding down the play button on the remote.

8. Triple click selects a whole paragraph of text.

9. To select a block of text, click the start position, then Shift-click the end position. Significant;y, this doesn’t just work in editing applications like Word (where you might be already doing it anyway), but it also works with non-editable text, such as a webpage in Safari. Where has this been all my life? The number of times I’ve selected pages and pages of text by click and drag, when this is so much quicker.

10. In TextEdit, Option-click & drag selects a rectangle of text. (When you need it, selecting a rectangle of text is really useful, so if anyone knows other applications that have this functionality, let us know.)

11. We all know Command-shift-4 to capture a selection of the screen, but don’t forget pressing the Spacebar will toggle between selection mode and select whole window mode.

12. Command click the jelly bean found in the top right corner of some applications to cycle through toolbars.

13. In Safari, Command-Shift-click a link opens it in a new tab and immediately displays the page. (If anyone knows a way in Safari to force a page to open in the same window, do tell.)

The Option key is a hidden treasure trove. Experiment with it often. Here’s a few:

14. Hold the Option key will clicking the Zoom button (green button, rightmost of three in the top left corner of windows) switches the zoom state of all windows in the selected application.

15. Option-click the minimize button minimizes all windows in the application - and makes for a really cool animation (hold the shift key too if you want to slow it down to see it more easily).

16. Option-click on a minimized window will restore all windows for that application.

17. Option-click on a running application in the Dock hides the front-most application and brings the clicked application to the front (unless it already was).

18. Option-click on the close tab icon in Safari, closes all other tabs. Handle this one with care - there’s no warning dialog.

19. Option-arrow moves cursor by word. One for the Windows switchers who are used to using ctrl-arrow.

20. When menus are selected, press the option key to reveal alternative functions. Eg In the File menu of Finder, the Get Info item becomes Show Inspector which is like a context sensitive info pane.

You can open several frequently used System Preferences directly in 10.5 and 10.6 with a simple keyboard shortcut.

If you have an Apple keyboard (or a third party one with similarly branded function keys) you can bring up various system preference panels without using your mouse at all.

Simply hold down the Option key combined with one of the Apple-branded function keys to bring up the related preference panel. So Option+F1 or Option+F2 will bring up Displays.

On the newer keyboards Apple changed the layout of a few of these function keys so they could include iTunes control keys; Option+ those f-keys used to bring up iTunes (under 10.5 and maybe the early versions of 10.6?) but that does nothing now.

Option+ any of the volume keys will bring up the Sound System Pref, and Option+ any of the Exposé function keys will bring up the Exposé/Spaces System Pref.

On a related note -- those newer Apple keyboards no long designate F7 as a toggle for display mirroring/extended desktop modes -- but you can still do that toggle without going into the Displays Pref panel; just hit Command+F1.

Step 1: Quit all applications

You must quit all applications before you uninstall Office for Mac. To quit an application, select the application on the toolbar (top), and then select Quit. If you cannot quit an application or do not know how, hold down the Command and Option keys, and then press Esc on your keyboard. Select the application in the "Force Quit Application" window, and then select Force Quit. Click Force Quit to quit the application.

Note You cannot quit Finder.

When you are finished, click the red button in the upper-left corner.

Collapse this imageExpand this image



You are now ready to remove Office for Mac 2011.

Step 2: Remove The Microsoft Office 2011 folders

  1. In the Finder, click Go, and then click Applications.
  2. Click to select the Microsoft Office 2011 folder.
  3. Drag it to the Trash. Or click File on the Finder menu, and then click Move to Trash.

Step 3: Remove the Office preferences

Note Removing the preferences will delete any customizations that you made. These customizations include changes to toolbars and custom dictionaries and keyboard shortcuts that you created. 

Also, be aware that this step includes emptying the Trash. Make sure that you check the Trash first to make sure that everything there can be deleted.
  1. In the Finder, click Go, and then click Home.
  2. Open the Library folder.
  3. Open the Preferences folder.
  4. n the Finder, click View, and then select As a List.  It will arrange the preferences alphabetically and will make it easier to select all files in a row when holding down the SHIFT key.
  5. Find all files that begin with "com.microsoft." (This is approximately 20 files.) Drag these files to the Trash, or select the files, click File on the Finder menu, and then click Move to Trash.
  6. Find the Microsoft folder, and then drag it to the Trash. Or, click File on the Finder menu, and then click Move to Trash.
Remove com.microsoft.office.licensing.helper.plist file:

  1. In the Finder, click Go, and then click Computer.
  2. Open your hard drive. For example, Macintosh HD.
  3. Open the Library folder.
  4. Open the LaunchDaemons folder.
  5. Select the file com.microsoft.office.licensing.helper.plist and move it to the Trash.
Remove com.microsoft.office.licensing.helper file:
  1. In the Finder, click Go, and then click Computer.
  2. Open your hard drive. For example, Macintosh HD.
  3. Open the Library folder.
  4. Open the PrivilegedHelperTools folder.
  5. Select the file com.microsoft.office.licensing.helper and move it to the Trash.

Step 4: Remove the License files


  1. In the Finder, click Go, and then click Computer.
  2. Open your hard drive. For example, Macintosh HD.
  3. Open the Library folder.
  4. Open Preferences folder.
  5. Select the file com.microsoft.office.licensing.plistand move it to Trash.

Step 5: Remove the Microsoft folder from Application Support in the HD Library

Follow these steps:
  1. n the Finder, click Go, and then click Computer.
  2. Open your hard drive. For example, Macintosh HD.
  3. Open the Library folder.
  4. In the Library folder, open the Application Support folder.
  5. Locate the Microsoft folder, and then drag the folder to the Trash.

Step 6: Remove Receipts


If you are using Leopard (10.5) or Snow Leopard (10.6), follow these steps:

1.    In the Finder, click Go, and then click Computer.

2. Open your hard drive. For example, Macintosh HD.

3.     Open the Library folder.

4.     Open the Receipts folder.

5.     Move all files starting with Office2011_ to the Trash.

Note. The Office2011_ files are not always found on Snow Leopard. You may find them sometimes  after an upgrade install of the Operating System, for example. 

If you are using Snow Leopard (10.6), follow these additional steps:
  1. n the Finder , click Go, and then click Go to Folder.
  2. Type the following text in the Go to the folder box:
    /private/var/db/receipts
  3. Click Go.
  4. In the Finder, click View, and then select As a List. It will arrange the receipts alphabetically and make it easier to select all files in a row when holding down the SHFT key.
  5. Drag to the Trash all receipts that start with "com.microsoft.office", you will be prompted for your Admin password when you move files from this location to the Trash.

Step 7: Remove the Microsoft folder from Application Support in the Home User Library

This will delete any custom template files that you may have created.

1. In the Finder menu, click Go, and then click Home.

2. Click the Library folder, and then open Application Support.

3. Mve the Microsoft folder to the Trash.

Step 8: Remove the Microsoft fonts

This will delete the Microsoft fonts that were installed with Office 2011.

1.     In the Finder menu, click Go, and then click Computer.

2.     Open your hard drive. For example, Macintosh HD.

3.     Click the Library folder.

4.     Open the Fonts folder.

5.     Move the Microsoft folder to the Trash

Step 9: Empty the Trash



1.     Open the Trash to make sure that there is nothing there that you want to save. If there is anything that you want to save, create a folder on your Desktop, and then drag anything from the trash that you want to keep to the new folder.

2.     Then, click Empty Trash on the Finder menu.

3.     Restart the Mac by going to the Apple menu and choosing Restart.

Step 10: Move the Microsoft User Data folder to the Desktop

Note: This step is optional if you are going to install Office 2011 later. The Microsoft User Data folder contains all user information for the Office software, including the Outlook (identities) database. 

If you are removing Office 2011 to resolve an issue with Outlook this step can help you determine if the issue is related to the Outlook data or the Office 2011 installation.

Note. If you already have Microsoft User Data folder, do not overwrite as may lose all your data in Outlook. Instead, simply rename the Microsoft User Data folder that is already on the Desktop first and then move Microsoft User Data to the Desktop.

If you later want to retrieve your identities, you can copy or drag the Microsoft User Data folder to the Documents folder. 

1.     In the Finder menu, click Go, and then click Documents.

2.     Click the Microsoft User Data folder, and then drag it to the Desktop

3.     If you do not want to keep your Outlook Identity or the Citation Source Manager Data, you can move the Microsoft User Data folder to the Trash.

4.     Restart your Mac by going to the Apple menu and choosing Restart.

f you later want to retrieve your Outlook identities, you can copy or drag the Microsoft User Data folder to the Documents folder, first move the newly created Microsoft User Data folder to the Trash, don’t empty the trash until all data is restored in Outlook.

Note: Your Outlook 2011 identity information is located in Macintosh HD\Users\your user\Documents\Microsoft User Data folder. If you delete this folder you will lose all your Outlook information as well as the Citation Source Manager Data. Do not remove Microsoft User Data if you wish to retain the data. If you previously owned Entourage, all of its data will be lost as well. 

Step 11: Remove the Office icons from the dock

Click the Office icon on the Dock. Click Options, and then click Remove from Dock. Repeat this step for all Office icons on the Dock. (Or, you can click each icon, and then drag it to the Trash. 

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After you complete the steps in this article, Office for Mac is completed removed from your computer.